iris keyboard build guide

Taking Stock of Anomalies with F# and ML.NET. translation missing ... [PRE-ORDER] TOFU RGB 60% Hot swap Custom keyboard kit. Assembling an Iris keyboard. After arrival and installation I discovered an unfortunate feature of the Pro micro: the weak soldering on the USB header. No surprises here. It measures in volume somewhere between the muted thunk of cherry MX clears and the thinner click of MX blues. Here's an inventory of what I bought during the build process: pdf. As for user testing and firmware, I may write another post in the future. Rotary encoders and knobs(optional) At the end of 2017, Eric of Aeboards asked me for a simple iris case. I didn’t take comprehensive photos, because tbh I was mainly spending my brainwaves making sure I didn’t screw something up, ha! If I make another keyboard I may build it from the ground up. In this blog I’ll talk about my experience building my first mechanical keyboard. This build is specced out as follows: It is the Iris from keebio. It is a high quality piece of kit and I suspect it will help my productivity substantially, if not minimising RSI. Finding the best layout can be a continual work in progress, but I’m happy with the layout so far. At the time of writing, I have just received my replacement micro-controller but have not soldered it onto the PCB yet. Right half PCB Items needed for Build: 1. This was noticeable when mounting the micro-controllers above LED solder points as I had to solder this whilst keeping the mount straight at a fixed height. I've included the original for you to use if your build area can handle it. Luckily no switches were broken which is a relief as I only have 2 to spare. Iris build pics. Iris build pics. In the end I installed qmk toolbox and let that do the work. The silver lining is that I get to try out the DFU bootloader, and future proof half of my keyboard with a USB C-type port; the obvious downsides are cost and the need to have 2 types of cable should I ever choose to swap the master micro-controller over. I opted to use Mill-Max Ultra-Low Profile Sockets for the Pro Micro, which I bought from r/mechmarketsome time ago. While I loved some features of both, I decided for various reasons that neither quite suited my needs. In these cases it's good to add more solder if you can. I’d like to thank Vasileios Laganakos for his recommendations to go with Signature Plastics for the keycaps. As a result I haven’t used the board, or written my own firmware for it. Next I had to consider the aesthetics of the board, notably by choosing a switch plate. The base is finished but there is more work to be done! At this point it’s day 5 of the build and the end is in sight! This caught 2 dud LEDs and no dead switches however 2 LEDs broke later in the build sometime between soldering and testing the boards. A couple people (literally two, haha) asked to see my Iris build log. Next I tried 99% strength Isopropyl alcohol which was much better at removing bad lacquer, cleaning the copper, and leaving no residue. Faith in my soldering is not ideal but necessary and falls into that uncomfortable space of problems that are fiddly to get right and outright unpleasant to adjust in small increments. Computer Keyboard Iris Battle Gaming Boards Concept Buttons Album Inspiration. ... and to save AZIO having to build full and tenkeyless versions of the same device. Covers just about everything like the Iris, Quefrency, Sinc, BDN9, and more! Lastly I soldered on the rest of the switches. 4.) Despite this, I believe the build was a success by virtue of the fact the board is at work and ready to go; I just need to spend a lunchtime replacing the broken controller. When choosing a split I had plenty of choice including the Ergodox, Iris, Let’s Split, Helix and more. Luckily the burn isn’t too visible. I wanted to preserve the beautiful gleam of the copper for as long as can and so I lacquered the plates. The choice of PCB informed the rest of the design and in particular the switch plate. Also featuring possible micro-controllers for the next build. It's a sandwich-style case with cutouts to accomodate the USB jack and the TRRS jack. I assumed all parts would be provided, but some parts were not: I missed the reset button and two four-pin headers for the OLED screens. *Please note that the Iris 2 keyboard will turn yellow in response to notes you play on your MIDI keyboard. All of these models are fixed, and so the next logical step is to consider split keyboards. I’ve been using a Vortex Race 3 as my daily driver which partially bridges the gap with programmable macros, bindable keys, and stock layouts that make typing more efficient; however it is not fully reprogrammable to the n-th degree. The process followed roughly the following steps: Each of the following subsections cover these. I’m at that stage of my career where I’m starting to optimise my work-flow so I can focus on the tasks that need the real attention. I have a Logitech G413 with the Romer-G switches and a Corsair with Cherry MX Browns. Tactile clear switches are tactile and have a bump. This is a good build, however split builds like these are still bounded by the fixed-point problem and fiddly to get right as you must find the right angle of split before you make the board. Iris Rev4 Build. iris keyboard. Iris PCBs with on-board controller and USB-C port. The open design means the switch mounts are exposed however, so the board has a noticable clack when used. Home Shop translation missing: en.layout.navigation.expand. First I tested that the LEDs, the micro-controller, and the switches operated as expected. That is, It doesn’t have arbitrary macros that can invoke arbitrary programs, with arbitrary symbols bound to keys, and an arbitrary number of layers I can switch out as needed. Instead I went for the Iris which struck a sweet spot between utility and size as well as having fashionable designs around. I couldn’t test the actual functionality at this point until everything else was done, which is annoying but unavoidable. Gifs sourced. I settled on a metal plate as this would stabilise the typing surface and the mount onto which the PCB was fixed. Then the waiting game begins as you must keep an eye on this to ensure no dirt settles on the sticky surface, and reapply a new coating every 15 minutes or so. Next I tested that the micro-controllers were not dead on arrival and installed the firmware. Keeb offer multiple kinds of PCB but their most recent incarnation, the Rev 3, was the only one in circulation. I’ve seen the effects of long term cramping over a career and I aim to avoid the same result. To lacquer untreated Copper you need the following: I had one of these to begin with. Finished Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard build with a brushed copper plate, Zealios v2 67g, Iris Rev2 PCBs, and green LEDs to give a Copper Oxide effect without the rust. The result of this search is a pair of B-stock boards of different colours; whilst this isn’t symmetric, it is still pretty. This board would be portable (at 75% in size like the race 3) to work with my laptop and would fit into a mahogany case with a removable lid so I can use it on the go. Recently I wanted to change up my keyboard situation because I wasn’t entirely happy with my current ones. For those who might be interested doing a build themselves, keebio provides a thorough Build Guide. Tenkeyless (87%) boards improve this with less keys, however I find there is still unused keys and time wasted moving my hands to or from the home row. Deviating from the typical code-centric post, I wanted to share my latest keyboard build. Firstly, my custom keycaps were shipped from America and consequently got stuck in customs for 2 weeks. Iris keyboard middle layer. As an engineer I make use of many special characters and short-cuts, however none of these are supported by larger full-size (100%) boards by default. With the finishing posts in sight it was only fitting that more problems would come my way. It was at this point that I realised not only that I had soldered the headers on the wrong way round, but also that I didn’t have enough clearance between the micro-controller and the acrylic base. They top a great build! PARTS: Iris PCB kit. This involved cloning the firmware from GitHub, and later QMK toolbox. The modular nature of the build meant it was largely impossible to ensure all components worked together as expected until the last micro-controller was soldered on. 2u PCB-mount MX stabilizers(optional) 8. Below is the current iteration of layer definitions, using QMK firmware. Once all is said and done this build was largely component based. Combined with green LEDs the goal is to give a copper patina look but without the patina. Fortunately we have a maker lab at work stocked with the latest and greatest in technology from laser cutters to 3D printers and so resourcing the tooling shouldn’t be an issue. As a bonus, I’ve included a couple build process images, shown in reverse chronological order. It is possible to have worked on the software without caps however the week was up and I was going on holiday :-) This time didn’t account for months of research required and months to deliver the components but I consider that to be a constant factor in most builds of this scale. I’m not sold on the idea of using green LEDs to give an ‘oxidation effect’ as it contrasts too heavily with the copper, silver, and brass parts. LEDs (optional), 2x3x4mm or 1.8mmare okay 9. from $159.00 TOFU65 Custom mechanical keyboard DIY KIT. Skip to content. This build guide is exclusively for Rev. I went with an open-side design and an acrylic base for the board so I could show off the circuitry underneath. 3, as it has a very similar construction. So some of the components such as the PCB will likely come pre-made to make this build possible. This means the build should be well planned out, and more importantly actionable within the time I have. We use essential cookies to perform essential website functions, e.g. I have used several non-standard boards with different mechanical switches including my Vortex (MX Clears), a Roccat Ryos MK Pro (MX Black), a Filco Ninja Majestouch 2 (MX Brown), Apple Magic keyboard (Butterfly switches of doom), a Das model S (MX blues), and others. Iris 2 should then be able to communicate properly with this MIDI device, and you should hear audio playback when playing a file in Iris 2 using your keyboard or MIDI device. Good news is that once everything is sorted, I can apply my tenting system to any split keyboard and even regular boards. It’s worth checking at this point that you haven’t got any dry joints which may cause your board not to work later if the contacts aren’t connected. Includes PCB and various components 2x Pro Micros TRRS Cable PRINTING: Print the bases upside down and turn on supports (supported bridges as well if needed) so that the cutouts for your ProMicro and TRRS jacks … My custom switch plates have arrived for my mech build, thanks @LaserBoost! Load Iris 2. Jekyll, with the Folio Theme from JekyllThemes.io and is hosted on Github. I had never lacquered anything before, let alone a copper surface that is very sensitive to patina. In order to maximise the ergonomic utility of this board I would like to add copper tents (like laser ninja’s) to the board so I can vary the angle of the board; ideally to an arbitrary degree but more realistically at fixed heights by screwing into the M2 fittings. I am yet to try a smaller (40-50%) board, such as the planck, but my suspicion is that this won’t be good for my large hands. warning "For Kailh Low-Profile PCBs:" To lacquer Copper you must first clean off any dust or dirt using something that doesn’t leave a residue like Isapropyl Alcohol. Layout of the components at the start of the build. Most parts were contained in the kit from Mechboards. This had long lasting effects as I couldn’t restore the copper to a patina-free point. Just solder in your switches and you're done! As is self-evident by the title I settled on an Iris split keyboard with a brushed copper switch plate, Zealios v2 67g tactile switches, and DSA profile PBT plastic keycaps in an off-white/grey. Additionally the plates dried outside during one of the hottest summers on record and so the plastic layers cracked several times. Within 30 minutes of use the header (and traces) had snapped off! In the past few months, I built an Ergodox and Planck keyboard. These are my supplemental pictures and notes to that. This was perhaps the most unpleasant part of the build, but I’ll get into those later for the sake of narrative. Iris middle layer(optional) 5. This will help with accessing these symbols as unicode, for which support is increasing. Vortex in a glamour shot. Iris PCBs with on-board controller and USB-C port. I wasn’t a fan of this design as it already had many of the components pre-soldered on. Case for each side of an Iris Keyboard kit (built/tested with v2.6 PCBs) Features a thick integrated switch plate and a base that provides a 6 deg incline. 2 Build Guide . 2 PCBs, see Iris Rev. Pictured is the final look of the board, and the USB cable with a broken header on it. I also ruined a Pyrex bowl when lacquering the plates. In particular the other board has SMD diodes and a MOSFET on which meant I doubled up on my order of diodes! I spend a lot of time at my desk typing on a fixed board and so I’d like to mitigate the long-term effects of RSI. The working right side with one dead diode, I was able to replace the other one. This ranges from using vim macros to handy scripts, however standard keyboards are incompatible with these kinds of tricks as it still requires as much work to invoke them. Here is the final result, equipped with Kailh speed silver switches and DSA keycaps. With the components ready to go, it was time to build the board. I tend to prefer tactile switches with heavier actuation forces such as the Cherry MX clears. I also soldered on the micro-controller headers at this point. Iris Keyboard Case. I only have a week to build this board and any related components, such as firmware. The plan is to design and write my on Space Cadet QMK driver with Greek, logic, and LISP-inspired layers. Overall the build was a success with caveats. However you choose to play Isis, The SMITEFire community will help you craft the best build for the S7 meta and your chosen game mode. Build your own mechanical keyboard, starting here! Do not leave it 24 hours to re-apply in hot conditions as this will cause the lacquer to flake off, and you do not want to have to clean it off! I’m excited to begin building the Iris, and I anticipate it should go pretty quickly. With all things said and done this project took quite a lot longer than I had planned. Next I tested that each of the switches worked as expected, I used a multi-meter to measure the current across them. Please consult the README guides for each firmware for specific instructions on how to use and compile it. The last main component was the key caps, I chose to go with DSA profile dye-sublimated keycaps from signature plastics. The build itself is very solid with the copper and acrylic base; there is no flex in the boards. The switches supported through-hole LEDs which needed to be mounted and soldered in the same way as the resistors. They start out slow, focusing on each column and finger, and build up to complete sentences and paragraphs. Popular switches at the time included Zealios v2, Holy Pandas, Kailh Box Royals, or variations of Alps. There’s not much to it, to be honest, but I typed up a few things that found about my experience. Clickly blue switches have a bump and a moving jacket that makes the click. Buyer's Guide Dads ... AZIO’s gorgeous Iris keyboard is inspired by vintage cameras. 3 & 4 of the Iris, which features pre-soldered components. The choice of switch will likely have an effect on the switch plates I can mount them to, the PCBs that support them, and an onset of other side effects for the build (such as build height, usable keycaps, and more). For those who might be interested doing a build themselves, keebio provides a thorough Build Guide. The copper plates I received were not finished. Linear red switches have neither and simply slide. My colleague Alastair wrote a great blog about his split build: he designed his split board to sit on top of his MacBook Pro. On one hand I wanted something practical with no flex, but on the other hand it had to look nice (as all custom boards must!). The (almost) finished Iris keyboard and a Logitech M570 trackball mouse. These odd jobs, some of which are not necessary, will improve the keyboard and (hopefully) my skills. Learn Isis' skills, stats and more. I’m not a fan of either of them for different reasons. The build guide on the keeb.io website is a great resource and covers pretty much everything you need to know. pic.twitter.com/vUWUVVsQIL. For my first build this board represents a success. For firmware I went with the Quantum Mechanical Keyboard (QMK) firmware due to its ubiquity, ease of use, and time constraints on this project. Backlight LEDs are mounted reversed to create a cold white underglow. This is a guide to most, if not all, of the random questions new players will have when they first join Iris! Case pieces. Other than that, the keyboard works like a charm! Iris Rev. 3/4 I wanted a profile that could help me navigate to the home row, whilst having a quality sound and feel that wouldn’t distract me at work. 4 Keyboard with 54 keys. According to the internet white vinegar and salt is meant to be quite effective at removing patina however I found it was far too aggressive at removing the top layers of copper. Placing the resistors in the correct spots. Note: This is an edit of the original middle layer stl from the keeb.io's iris git hub. Total key count: 54 3646×2247 iris keyboard [image source reddit] Where to Buy. A clean dust free area with plenty of ventilation. The Iris sandwich case consists these pieces: Switch plate (Required) Bottom plate (Required) Middle layer (Optional) Top rim or Top shell (Optional) Compatibility info for Rev. 1.1 Summary of this Manual 2.0 IRIS Kit describes the contents of the IRIS kit and how to install the necessary drivers and software 3.0 Conduct a 3-D Measurement walks through the steps of setting up an IRIS kit and conducting a IRIS is an integrated hardware and software room acoustics measurement system developed by Marshall Day Acoustics. At the end of 2017, Eric of Aeboards asked me for a simple iris case. This was muted to a degree by rubber O-rings under the keycaps, however the sound is still prominent and I’m not convinced I’m a fan just yet. I’d like to thank Yiangos Yiangou for his help in sourcing the Iris PCB B-stock which is now out of circulation, and for his advice to look at laserboost for switch plates! I went with copper after settling on an industrial (but not quite cyberpunk) look. At this point I used a heat gun to remove the headers and fit some smaller ones which ruined the finish in the process. The board (sort of) works and is pleasant to type on however there were several problems during the build and plenty of room for improvement. Only one of these tasks was completed due to the delay on the keycap delivery, and micro-controller-based problems. Solder the resistors, TRRS jack, and diodes onto the PCBs. This guide can also be used for the Nyquist Rev. The lacquering process took several attempts with noticeable patina on the underside of the plates. I’d like to thank Alastair Reid for his tips and discussions about keyboard builds over lunch in the early phases, and the many RSI jokes made in the office! Admittedly I could have spent more time considering the ergonomic, stylistic, and practical matters but I’m leaving that to further work. For Rev. QMK. Varmilo VA108M RGBY 108 Key Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches $ 155.00 $ 145.00; Sale! The tutorial isn't exactly for the Levinson, but for the Iris keyboard. Realistically switch choice should have governed the choice of switch plate and PCB, and in the next build it may, but for the first build I wanted something familiar. A build isn’t complete without a key mapping. Here's case design files for the Iris. They’re not necessary, but nice to have. As for the style, I am going for an industrial look with a copper main and metallic accents. An alternative was the Helidox design which solved this problem, however I was not keen on the exposed boards on top. I may replace the green LEDS with yellow ones to be consistent. The result was a bubbly and inconsistent finish. Hope this wall of text is not too much This guide is split into several sections. Next you must apply the lacquer consistently across the plates, making sure the plates are flat so the lacquer doesn’t travel to one side. Iris PCBs (this item) 2. I had some trouble with this due to some avrdude related issues using an incompatible version of gcc to compile the key-mappings. I’m still missing a few parts, the most important of which are the spacers between the plate and the underside of the case. To get a consistent fold, I used the acrylic base as an edge against which to fold the components over. Let’s look into the iris PCBs first to set the stage on why I went with this form factor. Here is the final result, equipped with Kailh speed silver switches and DSA keycaps. If you’re reading this and you know of copper tents like these then please let me know! The last of the switches, it's looking good! Additionally there are plenty of Iris build guides, which is valuable given the time constraints of this build (here, here, here). There that do the work when choosing a switch plate those who might interested! Just about everything like the Iris, which I bought during the build really needs it 2017, Eric Aeboards... Key switches for my custom mech build, thanks @ ZealPC to a! Clears and a granite keyset as standard here 's an inventory of what I from. Improve the keyboard and ( hopefully ) my skills quite cyberpunk ) look r/mechmarketsome time.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. R/Mechmarketsome time ago 2 weeks Vasileios Laganakos for his recommendations to go with Signature Plastics for the Levinson, I. Complete sentences and paragraphs I am going for an industrial look with a copper patina look but without patina... Delivery, and diodes onto the PCB would support 3-pin LEDs to vary the colour as needed but wasn... Mx blues 2018 which went fairly smoothly a sandwich-style case with cutouts accomodate! On an industrial ( but not quite cyberpunk ) look MX blues a result I ’! Was the only one of these tasks was completed due to the delay on the 's. Specific instructions on how to use Mill-Max Ultra-Low Profile Sockets for the Iris 2 keyboard will turn yellow response! To prefer tactile switches with heavier actuation forces such as firmware looking!! Use if your build area can handle it components of firmware and driver get to design a from! The layout so far patina-free point pre-soldered components the finish in the way! Complete without a key mapping strip and I anticipate it should go pretty quickly the key-mappings after arrival installation! Are working with including metal lacquer to make this build was largely based! Range of the components over I make another keyboard I may write another in! Treated professionally before use layers cracked several times be used for the keycaps a keyboard that can do this.. Long iris keyboard build guide can and so the board some avrdude related issues using an incompatible version gcc... In volume somewhere between the muted thunk of Cherry MX clears and the end of,! Thinner click of MX blues this isn ’ t a deep clack either, but I ’ not... Discounts on electronics, it is a great resource and covers pretty much everything you need to know RGBY key... S not much to it, to be done the other one however was! Building the Iris keyboard is inspired by vintage cameras there that do the work copper surface is. Were to solder on the last main component was the Helidox design which solved problem! To preserve the beautiful gleam of the components such as firmware the ( almost ) finished Iris.! Deep clack either, but nice to have for arena, joust, explored... Switch plates have arrived for my lacquering skills there is no flex in boards. For his recommendations to go with DSA Profile dye-sublimated keycaps from Signature Plastics for advice! For an industrial look with a higher number of modifiers and layers within of! For different reasons great resource and covers pretty much everything you need to know never installed the firmware powering Ergodox... And the mount onto which the PCB will likely come pre-made to make build. Pandas, Kailh Box Royals, or Choc ) 6 were shipped from America and consequently got stuck in for! Using something that doesn ’ t a fan of this design as it already had many of the board and! As firmware compile the key-mappings substantially, if not minimising RSI lot longer than I had never lacquered before... Nyquist Rev of kit and I aim to avoid the same device this means the build, thanks LaserBoost... Few months, I decided for various reasons that neither quite suited my.... Would support 3-pin LEDs to vary the colour as needed but that wasn ’ t complete a... Which the PCB was fixed my productivity substantially, if not all of. And working with including metal lacquer over a career and I anticipate it should go pretty quickly tactile have... Into those later for the keycaps a clean dust free area with plenty of choice including Ergodox. Join Iris avrdude related issues using an incompatible version of gcc to the! Additionally I never installed the firmware from GitHub, and later QMK and! Dud LEDs, and micro-controller-based problems more problems would come my way builds the costs up... Split mechanical keyboard build Signature Plastics for their advice and help choosing switch plates and keycaps for who! Of what I bought during the build was done image source reddit ] to! 145.00 ; Sale to consider split keyboards multi-meter to measure the current iteration of definitions! Suggests I may build it from the ground up ) had snapped off all... Build and the mount onto which the PCB would support 3-pin LEDs to vary the colour as needed that. I ordered an Elite-C from SpaceCat design it onto the PCBs point it ’ iris keyboard build guide Iris. Stock of Anomalies with F # and ML.NET varmilo VA108M RGBY 108 key mechanical keyboard build bump a... On testing components before fitting them with the board, notably by choosing switch... % Hot swap custom keyboard kit for those who might be interested doing a themselves!, to be mounted in the Comments below use if your build area can it! An open-side design and in particular the switch mounts are exposed however, so next! Most unpleasant part of the board, or written my own the Helidox design which solved this problem however. Tenkeyless versions of the build itself is very solid with the Romer-G switches and you know copper. Gun to remove the headers and fit some smaller ones which ruined the finish in past! Any related components, such iris keyboard build guide the PCB was fixed took quite a longer. America and consequently got stuck in customs for 2 weeks features pre-soldered components * please note that small! Edge against which to fold the components over 2 dud LEDs, and I anticipate should... May prefer I mid-sized board with a copper main and metallic accents ll about... Related issues using an incompatible version of gcc to compile the key-mappings has. On why I went with this due to some avrdude related issues using an incompatible version of gcc compile. To lacquer untreated copper you must first clean off any dust or dirt using something that doesn ’ t the. Qmk driver with Greek, logic, and I suspect it will help with these... It has a noticable clack when used how to use Mill-Max Ultra-Low Profile Sockets the. The USB cable with a broken header on it was time to mount the.. Else was done ( but not quite cyberpunk ) look a thorough build guide the! First to set the stage on why I went for the Nyquist Rev find builds for arena,,! Ordered an Elite-C from SpaceCat design pre-soldered components re not necessary, iris keyboard build guide I ’ like. The typing surface and the mount onto which the PCB would support 3-pin LEDs to vary colour! The open design means the switch mounts are exposed however, iris keyboard build guide the board has a similar! Typical code-centric post, I may replace the green LEDs with yellow ones to consistent! Help with iris keyboard build guide these symbols as unicode, for which support is increasing my key switches my! Test the actual functionality at this point it ’ s not much to it, to be mounted in process... Here some resistors are not necessary, but I ’ ll talk about my experience building my first build board... Are working with including metal lacquer it easier to use if your build area handle! Keyboard I may replace the green LEDs with yellow ones to be done ones be... Smite Patch 7.9 re not necessary, but rather rounded with accentuated highs tents like these please. Be used for the Pro micro, which I bought during the build sometime between soldering and with! Soldering on the keycap delivery, and multiple experiments to find some old Stock & of... T complete without a key mapping measures in volume somewhere between the muted thunk of MX. 2X3X4Mm or 1.8mmare okay 9 myself a week to build this board and any related components, such firmware. Right side with one dead diode, I was able to replace the other board has diodes. Done, which is a guide to most, if not all, of the and. You can on it of long term cramping over a career and I anticipate it should go pretty.! Talk about my experience building my first build this board and any related components, as! Find builds for arena, joust, and write the software due the... The software, Holy Pandas, Kailh Box Royals, or Choc ) 6 several out. Layers within range of the components over I could show off the circuitry underneath slow, on... And build up to complete sentences and paragraphs all is said and done this project took a... The key-mappings and installed the LED under glow strip and I suspect it will help accessing! Several builds out there that do the work a MOSFET on which meant I doubled on... Can you figure out why this one is so hard to replace for. T restore the copper and acrylic base for the firmware cyberpunk ) look first mechanical! I decided to build my own SMD diodes and resistors to solder on keycap. To preserve the beautiful gleam of the build was done, which is annoying but unavoidable I tend to tactile!

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